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Knowledge About Diamonds

The 4 Cs: Quality and Criteria for Diamonds

Learn everything about diamonds and the four criteria used to determine the quality of a diamond.

Criteria for Quality – The 4 Cs

The quality of a cut (faceted) diamond is assessed based on four criteria. These “4 Cs” determine its value:

  1. Carat (weight)
  2. Color
  3. Clarity
  4. Cut

Diamond Certificates: The Fifth C

In this context, a fifth C is often mentioned, which stands for “Certificate.” Independent diamond institutes such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD), or the International Gemmological Institute (IGI) assess the quality of diamonds based on the four criteria listed above.

Each diamond receives an individual certificate documenting its quality according to these four criteria. The institutes do not assess the actual monetary value of the diamond. Instead, the certificate serves as the basis for price determination between buyer and seller. It contains detailed information about the characteristics of the certified diamond. The internationally recognized quality standards provide security and transparency for both parties.

Origin of the Name

The word diamond is derived from the Latin word diamantem, a variant of the Greek word adámas (meaning “invincible”).

1. Carat – Weight

The weight of diamonds is measured in carats, where 1 carat (abbreviation: ct) equals 0.2 grams. A diamond weighing 1 gram therefore weighs 5 ct. While diamonds are available in various intermediate sizes, there are typical diamond sizes that are particularly popular among buyers and jewelers.

The smallest cut diamonds weigh 0.01 ct. The well-known round brilliant cut is only available for stones weighing at least 0.05 ct.

Diamond Sizes

Diamonds weighing 0.25 ct are referred to as quarter-carat diamonds. Popular intermediate sizes include 0.30 ct stones and the one-third carat at 0.33 ct. Half-carat diamonds (0.50 ct) and the famous one-carat diamonds (1.00 ct) are considered classics. Their prices are significantly higher than those of smaller stones.

To better visualize diamond sizes, you can view a PDF overview of diamond sizes.

2. Color

In rare cases, nature produces diamonds that are pink, red, blue, green, yellow, orange, or black. Depending on the intensity of the color, different classifications apply. Color intensity has a decisive influence on the value of the diamond.

Fancy Color Classifications:

F – Faint
VL – Very Light
L – Light
FL – Fancy Light
F – Fancy
FI – Fancy Intense
FV – Fancy Vivid
FD – Fancy Deep
FD – Fancy Dark

The Influence of Fluorescence

Under UV light, many diamonds exhibit an effect similar to a white T-shirt in a nightclub—they glow. The intensity of this phenomenon, known as fluorescence, is classified as none, faint, medium, or strong. Fluorescence can be considered a negative characteristic, as it may cause some diamonds to appear milky or cloudy. In certain colored diamonds, however, fluorescence can have a positive effect depending on the color and overall appearance.

3. Clarity

The fewer inclusions of foreign material found within a diamond, the higher its clarity. The purer—and thus freer of inclusions—and clearer a diamond is, the more valuable it becomes. The price increases exponentially with higher clarity grades.

“Flawless” is certainly the best-known term associated with diamond clarity. A diamond is considered flawless when no inclusions are visible even under tenfold magnification. While larger inclusions (from clarity grade PI2 onward) can be seen by the naked eye, smaller inclusions are only visible to experts using a loupe. The following internationally recognized clarity classifications apply:

AbbreviationMeaningExplanation
IFInternally FlawlessLoupe-clean except for possible surface marks from processing
VVS1 / VVS1Very, very small inclusionsInclusions extremely difficult to detect even at 10× magnification, even for experts
VVS2Very, very small inclusionsInclusions extremely difficult to detect at 10× magnification
VS1 / VSIVery small inclusionsInclusions very difficult to detect at 10× magnification for trained professionals
VS2Very small inclusionsInclusions difficult to detect at 10× magnification
SI1Small inclusionsInclusions detectable at 10× magnification by trained professionals
SI2Small inclusionsInclusions detectable at 10× magnification but not with the naked eye
PI1Piqué IInclusions barely visible to the naked eye, brilliance not significantly affected
PI2Piqué IIInclusions visible to the naked eye, brilliance affected
PI3Piqué IIIInclusions clearly visible to the naked eye, brilliance significantly reduced

Types of Inclusions

Inclusions are generally divided into two categories: inclusions of foreign material and surface blemishes.

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Diamond knowledge

Inclusions of foreign material are classified as crystals, clouds, and feathers. Crystals are tiny minerals trapped inside the diamond during its formation. Clouds are hazy areas composed of many small crystals and are only visible under tenfold magnification. Feathers are fractures or cracks within the stone. If relatively small, they only slightly reduce the value of a diamond; if large, they can affect the diamond’s structural integrity and, in the worst case, cause it to break. Pronounced feathers significantly reduce the diamond’s value and therefore classify such stones as Piqué diamonds (clarity grades PI1 to PI3).

Blemishes are impurities or marks on the surface of a diamond. These defects are usually not visible to the naked eye. A diamond that is completely free of internal inclusions but has only a surface blemish may still be graded as IF by the renowned Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

4. Cut

Only since the 20th century have the technical capabilities existed to produce particularly precise diamond cuts. The mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky described diamond proportions and symmetry in his doctoral thesis and developed the brilliant cut, which consists of at least 57 facets.

To this day, the brilliant cut remains the most well-known and most frequently purchased diamond cut. Only through this cut can the diamond’s “fire” fully develop. The difference in cut quality is easily visible even to the untrained eye when looking at a jeweler’s display. Some diamonds appear dull and lifeless, while others seem to emit sparks. Because cutting diamonds is an extremely demanding process due to the hardness of the material, the rule applies: the cleaner and more precise the cut, the higher the price the diamond can achieve on the market.

Common Cut Shapes

Navette (Marquise)
Princess
Baguette
Oval
Pear (Drop)

Diamond Imitations (Cubic Zirconia)

Cubic zirconia is a diamond imitation commonly used in jewelry production. When well crafted, it can closely resemble a real diamond at first glance. Cubic zirconia is a synthetic material and is significantly less expensive than a genuine diamond. It is therefore often used as a substitute.

Cubic Zirconia – Less Durable, Quickly Becomes Cloudy

Cubic zirconia is far inferior to real diamonds in terms of hardness and therefore breaks more easily or becomes cloudy over time. It is particularly suitable for fashion jewelry that is not intended to last a lifetime but only for a limited period. Cubic zirconia is suitable only for jewelry that will be worn a few times.

Diamonds Last a Lifetime

For jewelry intended to accompany someone throughout their lifetime, the choice should always be a genuine diamond. With a Mohs hardness of 10, diamond is the hardest natural gemstone. This makes it ideal for special pieces of jewelry, such as engagement rings. Diamonds sparkle for a lifetime and never lose their brilliance. A diamond will bring joy to its owner for a lifetime. As diamonds are significantly more expensive than cubic zirconia, they should always be purchased from a trustworthy source.